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Entrance fees have gone up from $1 all the way to $2 per person. This is still one of the best bargains in all the islands. A reader writes in to remind us that the parking lot can be very hot if you decide to snorkel from the cove and must cross it without shoes (in order to leave nothing on this beach).
If you snorkel without booties and the weather makes the asphalt too hot for your taste, simply begin your snorkel just outside the parking lot at the location marked on our map. It's less pretty, but very convenient to some wonderful snorkeling (and handy if you forgot that $2).
Respect Sacred Sites!
Whenever snorkeling at any site considered to be sacred by Hawai'ians (such as Lapakahi on Maui or Place of Refuge on the Big Island), please be aware that some frown on any activity that they consider disrespectful.
There are differing opinions right now as to appropriate behaviour, so go out of your way to tread carefully with a minimum impact on the site. Don't leave gear spread around; limit picnics to picnic areas; be as quiet as possible; and never tamper with the site in any way.
KIHOLO BAY
As you cross the broad bands of lava on Highway 19, you will see an intriguing oasis along the shore. It's only about a mile from the highway, but this beautiful cove doesn't have access by car. The hike is not nearly as bare as appears from the road and is well worth the trouble. Take a picnic lunch, plenty of water and enjoy this tranquil spot before another hotel is built. The trail takes you to the south part of the bay where you'll find a pebble beach, shade trees and a well-protected, shallow area for snorkeling. Don't be surprised if you have the bay to yourself. This is easy snorkeling and provides an excellent chance to see turtles that know the law now protects them. We must have seen twenty at this site and none were shy. A couple even swam right up and looked at our faces.
This bay has scattered rocks and little coral. The fish are mostly quite small (some very tiny), but in a large variety. The big fish seemed skitish -- perhaps they've avoided being caught. We saw an unusual number of cute little damselfish.
The water here is cold in spots since it flows in from high in the mountains, so you will swim from cold to warm and back again as you travel around the bay. Snorkel anywhere within the large double bay or beyond the points in calm weather.
Hiking in is pleasant, almost flat and often sheltered by acacia trees. The south end of the beach offers picnic tables and trees as well as a beautiful view of the Kohala Mountains. There are no facilities. Locals know where to find fresh spring water, but you will need to bring your own.
GETTING THERE
>From Kailua drive north on Highway 19 past the airport and Kona Coast Park. Watch for highway marker # 82 which is right at the scenic viewpoint on the ocean side of the highway. From this spot drive exactly .9 of a mile north and park along the road. There are two small spots to park -- one on each side of the road. (Map in next edition of SHBI). You then head south (left) on the fairly well-worn trail. It would be hard to wander off the trail due to the amount of lava in this area. Continue to hike for about 1/2 mile through the trees. (Don't worry if it appears you're walking too far south.) The jeep trail has been blocked by fallen trees in several locations, but the footpath just cuts around them.They are effective at keeping out all vehicles. Be sure to pass the dirt road leading to a black iron gate on your right, continue another 1/4 mile and take a right toward a closed pipe gate, where you can easily walk around. Follow this short path about 200 yards to the water. You'll see a small water tank on the right and an old ruin of a house on the left. At this point you can't miss the beach and picnic tables.
From Kohala drive south on Highway 19 until you see mile marker # 81, then look for parking just .1 mile to the south. Follow the same path as above.
While exploring South Point, you might want to try snorkeling or at least cool off at the beach. When south swells aren't rolling in, this little bay is calm and easy -- a popular spot for local children. It is used mostly for fishing since it has a fair sized boat ramp, but children play on the ramp area while the boats are out. Entry is very easy -- as long you don't slip on the algae. Snorkeling is best along the left side to the point. Don't swim beyond the point if there is any chance of currents. You're likely to find local people here who will be happy to advise you.
This isn't a large bay or the very best snorkeling, but it had plenty to see (including a snowflake moray) and is a welcome chance to cool off in hot weather.
There are no facilities here, but restrooms are available behind the Visitor Center even when it's closed. Winter winds prevent tree growth so shade and privacy are absent too.
GETTING THERE
From Highway 11 turn toward the south on South Point Road. This is marked by a sign so isn't hard to find. At the V, go left toward the Visitor Center (also marked, but often closed). The road gets a bit bumpy and wanders toward the sea ending at a dirt "parking" area where you're likely to see several boat trailers. There are several short alternative dirt roads, but all end up at the same place.
(Map in next edition of SHBI).GREEN SAND BEACH
This gorgeous green sand beach requires a long hike over sunblasted land (at least 3 miles each way). Cars can't possibly make it. Even 4WD isn't easy. But, if you can find a way in, this is one of prettiest beaches on the Big Island and has good snorkeling, a sand beach with easy access and plenty of solitude. You've probably seen the picture, but the beach is even prettier than you might imagine. The walk is fairly flat most of the way through some interesting ruins, but can be very hot with no shade whatsoever. Bring a picnic, lots of water and plan to stay awhile. When you get to the beach, there's a somewhat steep, but entirely safe, path down to the water. It includes an overhang where you can find deep shade if needed. Once down to the sand, it can be entirely calm if south swells aren't hitting. On a calm day snorkeling and swimming here are excellent.
Head out to the left along the cliff and islands to snorkel, but don't go beyond the calm area. If you have any doubts, stay well within the bay. South Point is not a good place to test the ocean currents.
If the hike sounds too long, you might be able to find someone at the parking area who could be hired to drive you there. As long as you've come this far, do try to see Green Sand Beach and allow time to linger. This is a beautiful picnic spot, but has no facilities and must be left perfectly clean.
GETTING THERE
From the parking area for Kaulana Bay the road to Green Sand Beach heads out to your left.
(Map in next edition of SHBI). Lots of tourists try to take this dirt road only to turn around in a few minutes. We guarantee your car will NOT be able to go far. The trail heads along the ocean (with all branches ending up in the same spot) until you see dramatic Green Sand Beach. The trail down to the beach will be on this side and is usually marked by a few sticks.There is only one way down & it angles left toward the sand. The first part is the hardest so don't let that scare you. It really isn't very difficult or long (about 300 yards).SOUTH POINT
While South Point can be windswept and is always barren, it offers a stark kind of beauty. There are also many areas of interest since it wasn't nearly so quiet in the past. People often drive this far, but miss the attractions because little is marked in any way. For starters it isn't easy to find the true South Point (Ka Lae in Hawai'ian), the southernmost point in the United States. South Point Road is no problem, but you'll come to a V in the road where there is no sign except one directing you left to the Visitor Center. At this V
(Map in next edition of SHBI), go right if you are heading for the point. There you will find a dirt parking area with five strange-looking platforms along the edge of the cliff. These are winches that were used to haul fish up the sheer cliff. Walking toward the edge, check out the swinging ladders that rise about forty feet straight out of the water. There is also a lava tube opening that allows you to peer down at the water. Take care exploring here when the wind is high and think how exciting it must have been to use those ladders.A dirt road toward the east
(Map in next edition of SHBI) takes you to a heiau and the lighthouse. This is also an interesting spot to explore and often completely empty.Driving toward South Point you've notice the huge windmills on either side of the road. Trees become more scarce and eventually disappear due to the heavy storm winds.
KE'EI BEACH
This hidden and uncrowded beach has lots of spots to snorkel. The beach itself is sandy, but has plenty of rocks and coral making snorkeling or swimming a challenge even with light surf. It's better to enter the water at several spots to the north.
(Map in next edition of SHBI).Depending on the conditions -- calmness and tide, you can enter from the lava shore where it's easy to find "steps" or from the concrete boat ramp at the north (right) end of the beach. Snorkel to the right as far as you wish along the lava coast when calm enough. The coral here is excellent and the lava forms underwater canyons and arches. One arch is just under the surface and very delicate. The lava shore is paricularly interesting here and makes a nice place to explore and watch the sunset. Bring food and water because there are no facilities. You'll see some houses along the way and children playing so drive carefully since the houses are so close to the street.
GETTING THERE
From Kailua take Highway 11 south to the turnoff toward Kealakekua Bay
(Map in next edition of SHBI). Wind your way down the hill to the bay where you will need to turn left at the end of the road. Go exactly 1/2 mile south from this intersection. You will pass Keawaiki Road with a group of mailboxes on the right. Take the next right (no sign). If you get to the road to the landfill (sign reads Transfer Station), you've gone too far. Head toward the ocean on the dirt road slowly and carefully across lava fields for .2 mile where the road winds to the left. Continue on this road to one of the small parking areas marked on our map. This road is marginal at best so don't attempt it in rainy weather when you can't see the holes. It's best not to try driving all the way to the beach. And don't mention this site to your rental car company.From Place of Refuge, take the road north toward Kealakekua Bay
(Map in next edition of SHBI). You'll travel nearly straight through the lava fields for about 3 1/2 miles until you see the transfer station on your right. Take the next (unmarked) road to the left and continue as described above.KEAUHOU HARBOR
For a harbor, this is a very pleasant place to snorkel with little boat traffic to worry about and plenty of nice coral. We prefer snorkeling the left side all the way to the point. Stop whenever it starts to get choppy. The harbor itself is usually quite calm. Enter the easiest way from the little beach on the right, but that requires a longer swim. It's also possible to jump in from the dock or the boat ramp closer to the left
(Map in next edition of SHBI). You'll also find a ladder on the dock for your exit.We saw turtles, large coral heads, Christmas wrasses, schools of racoon butterflyfish, yellow tangs and much more. The water near shore isn't too clear, but it improves rapidly.
CAPTAIN COOK MONUMENT -- by kayak
Kayaks are available in Kailua or from Mike in Napo'opo'o just two houses away from the parking lot at Kealakekua Bay. Just look for house with kayaks decorating the front walls. We've included this site since more people are either taking kayaks or making the long swim across the bay (about one mile). See our map in the next edition of SHBI for information about where to put a kayak while you enjoy the great snorkeling. We've noted two spots and you can pick the one that looks calmest or more attractive. Then snorkel the area between them. If really ambitious, snorkel well beyond in either direction assuming it's calm. Most of the bay is usually very calm, but the swells can pick up toward the point. Bring lunch and water and stay awhile in this delightful place. Our favorite spot to picnic is right at the plaque where Captain Cook 'met his end'. Snorkeling is outstanding right in this shallow inner bay.
Tides are rarely a big factor in Hawai'i, but they do affect where you leave your kayak. Keep in mind the water can go up or down by up to three feet so park that kayak well above the water line if you're going to stay awhile. The snorkeling here is very easy and rewarding. We've seen Potter's angelfish, zebra moray, blue spotted groupers, lei triggerfish, teardrop butterflyfish, and the largest eel we've ever seen. All this in calm, clear water with beautiful surroundings! Once in awhile (mostly when there's a full moon), the tidal change will cause swift currents in certain spots where the flow of water is restricted. You'd be surprised how difficult it can be to swim into the shallow bay where most people park their kayaks. Most of the time it's easy as can be, but when the tide turns, watch out! If you happen to encounter this current, consider getting out on the rocks and walking a bit over land.
Hiking inland from the monument can be interesting too, but requires shoes and moskito protection. You'll be amazed how many hungry insects await in this overgrown area. The paths lead to waterspouts out at the end by the point and a queen's bath to the right of the monument. Take extra care near the waterspouts because they can and have pulled people right in. When spouting, they are most impressive.
This park adjacent to a "beach" is pretty, but not great for walking barefoot or swimming. The beach is really chunks of black lava and white coral mixed -- mostly about walnut sized. The reef in front makes swimming difficult even if you can cross the beach. However, there is a small channel at the far right of the beach that makes entry quite easy (Map in next edition of SHBI). Snorkel to the right or beyond the waves that break near the park. This entire bay offers good snorkeling with healthy coral, some large fish and good variety. If waves are breaking against the shore in spots, you can still snorkel safely by watching and staying beyond them. If calm, poke around the shoreline to the right where you can swim into some small pools surrounded by lava. You can also snorkel well beyond the point to the left when conditions permit.
GETTING THERE
Head down to Kealakekua Bay (Map in next edition of SHBI). At the bottom of the hill, turn left at the little parking lot.Then take the first right which is Manini Beach Road. On your right will be some houses, then lava with tidepools. At this point the road will angle left. Take the small road to the right just past the next house. This road (looking more like a driveway) leads about 100 feet to the beach, but may be closed by a low gate. Either open the gate or find a parking place along the road and walk in. You'll often see tents and a few cars right under the "No Camping" sign. There are picnic tables and large shade trees, but no other facilities. For hiking continue along the beach toward the far point and around, but only with adequate shoes.
This little town in located on Kealakekua Bay and provides very nice snorkeling even if you don't choose to cross the bay to the monument area. Throughout the bay you'll find large coral heads with plenty of fish and few snorkelers. Snorkeling is paricularly good between the pier and the beach to the right. Just make sure to stay beyond the waves if they happen to be breaking against the lava shoreline. The easiest entry is from the left side of the end of the pier (Map in next edition of SHBI) where there are steps of sorts in a calm spot. The pier is several feet above the water, so jump in or seek the steps. Once in the water you'll be able to see the steps you'll need for exit. Snorkel to the right for the very best snorkeling just before the next beach.
Often the beach entry is fairly easy when the waves aren't large. The beach itself is very rocky and doesn't look promising, but there's sand right up to the shoreline on the first section of the beach (Map in next edition of SHBI) making it good for swimming too. From here snorkel to the left when calm enough. Sometimes the large groups of spinner dolphins come in almost this far, so if lucky, you can snorkel with the dolphins. Do not disturb them in any way!
GETTING THERE
Take the road to Kealakekua Bay (Map in next edition of SHBI) and park in the little parking lot at the end of the road. From there the pier entry is just steps away. The beach is 1/2 block at the end of the street to your right.
A well-marked path starts at the south end of the picnic area (Map in next edition of SHBI). This trail wanders through many historical ruins following the coast to the end of the park. This idylic location was the site of Ki'ilae. You can explore the ruins or have a swim at a little pebble cove next to the path. Beyond the park's boundaries this section of the Kings' Path continues to the next town -- Ho'okena.
After a beautiful 1/2 mile stroll, the path leads up to a cave where you can walk through with a flashlight and emerge at the lava tubes opening to the sea. The tube isn't tall enough to walk without scraping your head, so a flashlight is required. There's also a beautiful view from the short ramp leading to the cave. Some people fish along this section of the park. Others go for the sunset. Although the park is open after dark, there are no lights here, so the flashlight is needed if you get caught by the sudden darkness.
This large, calm bay has fabulous snorkeling. The usual entry spot is often called "Two Steps" by the locals (Map in next edition of SHBI). When calm enough, entry over this lava is fairly easy if you're careful. Watch out for urchins below the water line and study the surge carefully. It's usually OK to jump in from the lava since the water is clear enough to see where you're jumping. Getting out you can see natural "steps" in the lava just under the waterline -- good locations vary depending on the tide. Be a little extra cautious here when the surge is strong to avoid lava scrapes or urchin punctures. If there's any doubt about the surge, swim over to the boat ramp where it's even calmer and easier -- any time except the very lowest tide when this area gets extremely shallow. At low tide it can be difficult to find your way into the boat channel.
The road is narrow here with houses and children near the street, so drive very slowly. Come early to find a parking spot because the boat trailers will fill most of them. As this site becomes more popular, it will tend to fill quite early. If necessary, pay Place of Refuge and park at the back of their lot which is close enough. There are no facilities except for some picnic tables and shade trees, but restrooms are available at Place of Refuge -- another reason to pay their reasonable entrance fee.
From this entry snorkel right, left or all around (Map in next edition of SHBI). With calm water you can snorkel the coastline to the right all the way to the point. Most of the near shore snorkeling is about ten feet deep. For deeper canyons and turtles, head to the left along the park. Take care that you don't head out into the breakers at the far point. This entire area has excellent coral, colorful fish, occasionally large fish. Beginners to advanced snorkelers will find plenty to enjoy. It's a beautiful spot for a picnic too. Swimming is OK, but there isn't any beach. Water clarity is unusually good here.
GETTING THERE
From Kailua, take Highway 11 south to the Place of Refuge (Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park) sign. This new road (Highway 160) takes you down the hill to the park. At the entrance to their parking lot, you'll see a fire hydrant and a road to your right. Take this road around the bend where you'll see parking along the road and some houses. Park past the boat trailers to leave the longer spaces for them.
PLACE OF REFUGE -- picnic area
This site isn't for beginners, but is very interesting when conditions allow. The lava here drops off suddenly and is often pounded by breakers. On a relatively calm day, look for the spot where there is a distinct gap between breakers (Map in next edition of SHBI). This is a natural channel where you can enter with little trouble. Once in the water it's easier to see where you need to swim to get completely beyond the surf line. Then snorkel in either direction. It's necessary here to return to the same spot to exit, so leave something bright where you entered -- preferably above the high tide line if you're planning to stay awhile.
Snorkeling here is around rocks and lava with less coral, but there are plenty of fish and some interesting lava tubes and arches. You'll sometimes see people fishing in this area, so have a chance to watch the fish contemplate their bait.
GETTING THERE
Follow directions (Map in next edition of SHBI) to Place of Refuge (Pu'uhonua O Honaunau) and pay the entrance fee at the front desk when you drive in. Don't use this parking lot though. Continue to the left and follow the meandering dirt road that leads to the picnic area. Park near the first picnic table and carefully locate the entry point by comparing with our map (Map in next edition of SHBI) and watching the waves.
Green Sand Beach From South Point you can drive east to this beach, but then must hike 3 miles each way. There is NO way your car will make it. This is a beautiful spot (even if it isn't very green) and offers swimming and snorkeling when the south swells aren't rolling in. Check conditions before heading out. Be extra careful because it's an isolated spot.
"Two Step" The snorkeling entrance just north of the Place of Refuge parking lot is one of our favorites on the Big Island. Park along the road, but get here early to have a space. There's a spot on the lava called "two step" where divers and snorkelers enter the water. Be extra careful when entering from lava. This probably isn't the best entry for beginners, but confident snorkelers will love it. Snorkel right along the shore, left toward Place of Refuge, or out to the canyons in the center. This is a large, terrific area to explore and is usually fairly calm since the reef extends all the way to the points.
Napo'o'opo'o Coming down from the hill near Captain Cook, you'll deadend at this little parking lot. Directly in front is an old pier where you can enter from the left. Snorkel around it to the right along the lava coast as far as the pebble beach. If waves are hitting the lava, be sure to stay well back from the action. Our favorite spot is just before you get to the beach.
South Honokohau Harbor ('Alula Cove) This tiny protected cove offers a good picnic site as well as good snorkeling. When calm you can snorkel beyond the cove and see some pelagic fish. To get there from the harbor, continue to the left and drive as far as possible. Park in this sandy area and walk the short path that angles to the left.
You'll see the cove from the parking area.
Mahai'ula Bay This pretty and uncrowded bay is a short hike north of Kona Coast State Park. It's the first bay you'll come to along the well-marked trail. It's secluded with white sand and shade trees, but no facilities. Snorkeling is only mediocre, but the bay is worth the hike anyway. Perfect for a picnic and swim.
Puako Our favorite entry here is at the far south end of Puako Road.
In good weather it's fairly easy to enter here from the lava, but isn't a good choice for beginners. Stay well away from extremely shallow areas all along the coast of Puako. Also watch so that you can find your way back to the entry point. Most of the other beach access spots at Puako are potentially quite dangerous due to the lack of clearance and frequency of waves. Puako does have excellent snorkeling over a broad area.
Makaiwa Bay From the Mauna Lani Bay and Bungalows or the public access, go to the boat house and snorkel straight out and to the right. This is excellent snorkeling and quite a large area. It's much better than snorkeling right in front of the hotels here.
"Fifteenth Hole" This snorkeling site is south of the Mauna Lani boat house. You will need to walk south on the path bordering the golf course or swim about half a mile. There are lots of little canyons to explore along the way. Besides the usual creatures, you'll see plenty of golf balls and can nab some while practicing your surface dives.
ASTON KEAUHOU BEACH RESORT
South of Kailua-Kona, perched next to Kahalu'u Beach you will find the closest thing Hawai'i has to a true snorkeler's hotel. This 6-story hotel actually juts out over the tidepools along the southern side of Kahalu'u Beach. All rooms are within an easy walk of the lobby and the snorkeling is just past the swimming pool.
Fly to the Big Island by early afternoon and you can have a long, calm snorkel the same day. The fish here are unusually large, varied and tame -- perfect for photography. The old breakwater provides protection from the waves all but a couple of days a year, giving you calm conditions throughout the day.
The 318-room hotel itself is comfortable and casual with fairly large rooms that include an nice small empty frig, so you can fill it with your choice of snacks and drinks. A small but well-stocked market is located just outside the lobby. A full-size supermarket with bakery, deli, and more is a short drive up the hill.
Parking is usually adequate in the nearby lot. The restaurant overlooks the pool, kiddie pool, and ocean. Most rooms have beautiful views of the tidepools or the beach. Their art gallery features affordable art by local artists. An extra-large tub/shower combo is great after a long snorkel, and perfect for rinsing off gear. The Aston Keauhou Beach Resort offers free coffee in the lobby for early risers, from 5:30 to 6:30 a.m. and then the restaurant opens.
Watch the sunset from the gardens or restaurant, wander the many large tidepools, and snorkel several times a day because this beach isn't boring. You'll find a large array of fat and happy Hawai'ian fish along with very tame turtles. Access to the freeway is also easy for those who decide to explore the island.
From the lobby, simply head out past the pool and take the marked walkway to the Kahalu'u Beach. Or, better yet, take the short walk next to the towel stand. Just past this tiny lawn is a low stone wall. Step up on the wall and look on the other side for stone steps down to the lava. Cross the lava carefully (heading a bit to your right) until you find an easy spot to sit down and get into your gear. The spot you choose will vary with the tides, but is about twenty feet from the wall. Entry is extremely easy providing you don't slip when the lava is wet. Then glide across the fairly shallow area to the deeper reef.
This is one spot where tides matter. Even a foot rise can wash away your towels left at the entry point, so be sure to store stuff on a high point or back at the wall.
Prices range from $98 for a garden view room to $170 for the deluxe ocean front. Sometimes packages are available.
Aston Keauhou Beach Resort 78-6740 Ali'i Drive Keauhou-Kona, HI 96740
(800) 367-6025 from the mainland (800) 446-8990 from neighbor islands (808) 322-7987
GETTING THERE
From Kailua-Kona, go south on Ali'i Drive five miles from the point where Palani becomes Ali'i (at the King Kamehameha). You'll see the Kahalu'u Beach sign just before you get to the hotel.
From the airport, continue south on Highway 19 (becoming Highway 11) past the signs to Kailua-Kona. Turn right on King Kamehameha III toward the town of Keauhou. It will curve left, then right beneath the shopping center. At that light turn left on Ali'i Drive toward the ocean, following Ali'i as it curves right until you see the sign for the hotel on your left.
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